[ Albania in 9 parts ]

Each one has a base town, a length of stay it rewards and a set of months it does not. The grid below is the same twelve cells the home page shows; the rows underneath say what each part is.

Computed from 46 profiles. Every cell opens its month with the reasons and the sources, the full matrix.

The Ksamil islets in shallow turquoise water under bright midday lightAI imageAlbanian Riviera4 to 7 days · best May to Jun, Sep · 5 profilesThe Ionian coast from Vlorë down to Ksamil: beach towns, the SH8 road above them, and the country's sharpest gap between what a month costs and what it gives you.The stone church of Theth on the valley floor beneath the limestone walls of the Radohima massifAI imageAlbanian Alps3 to 6 days · best Jun to Sep · 6 profilesTheth and Valbonë on either side of a 1,795 m pass, reached by a mountain road and a ferry that both keep their own calendar. The shortest season in the country and the one worth planning around.The Koman ferry threading the narrow karst gorge, green walls rising straight out of emerald waterAI imageShkodër and Lake Koman1 to 3 days · best Apr to Oct · 6 profilesThe north's logistics hub and the ferry corridor behind it. Rozafa above the town, the Koman gorge upstream, and every Alps trip passing through in both directions.The stacked white Ottoman facades of Berat's Mangalem quarter rising above the OsumAI imageBerat and the centre2 to 3 days · best Apr to Jun, Sep to Oct · 5 profilesA UNESCO town of stacked Ottoman windows, the wine country around it, and the Osum canyon within an hour. The easiest inland leg of any north-south route.Grey slate roofs of Gjirokastër stepping down the hillside below the castle, the Drino valley beyondAI imageGjirokastër and the south3 to 5 days · best Apr to Jun, Sep to Oct · 7 profilesThe stone town above the Drino valley, with Përmet's thermal baths, the Lengarica canyon and Butrint all inside a day's driving.Tirana and Durrësno photograph in this region yetTirana and Durrës2 to 4 days · best Apr to Jun, Sep to Nov · 6 profilesWhere nearly every trip starts and ends: the country's only real international airport, its road hub, and a port an hour away. A first and last night rather than a week.The SH8 switchbacks descending from the Llogara pass through pines to the coast far belowAI imageVlorë and Karaburun2 to 5 days · best May to Jun, Sep to Oct · 7 profilesThe top of the Riviera: a working city, the Llogara pass above it, and a wild peninsula reachable only by boat. The airport here has no scheduled flights, so arrival is still by road.Korçë and the south-eastno photograph in this region yetKorçë and the south-east2 to 4 days · best May to Jun, Sep to Oct · 3 profilesHighland Albania: a town at 850 m with a real winter, mountain villages above it, and Lake Ohrid at Pogradec. The one region whose best food months are the cold ones.North-east corridorno photograph in this region yetNorth-east corridor1 to 3 days · best Jun to Sep · 1 profileKukës, Peshkopi and Tropojë: the remote interior and the way through to Kosovo. Thin on services, hard on roads, and the least-visited part of the country by some distance.